A hutch on its own is not enough for a rabbit. The Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund (RWAF), RSPCA, PDSA and Blue Cross all give the same minimum for a pair of average-sized rabbits: a combined living space of at least 3m x 2m, and 1m high, that the rabbits can use at all times. Bigger is better, and larger breeds or bigger groups need more.
That space can be a shed with an attached run, a large walk-in enclosure, or a rabbit-proofed area of your home. Inside it, rabbits need a dry sleeping area, hiding places and room to dig.
Rabbits should also live with at least one other rabbit, ideally a neutered pair. A single rabbit still needs the full amount of space.
How much space rabbits need
The RWAF minimum is one continuous area, not a hutch plus occasional time in a run. The upper floor of a two-storey hutch, ramps and tunnels do not count towards the floor area.
| Part of the setup | Minimum for two average rabbits |
|---|---|
| Total living area | 3m x 2m (about 10ft x 6ft 6in) |
| Height | 1m (about 3ft 3in) |
| Sleeping shelter | 1.8m x 0.6m x 0.6m (6ft x 2ft x 2ft), can sit inside the total area |
| Access | 24 hours a day, every day |
Most hutches sold as “luxury” or “deluxe” are still far too small to be a rabbit’s whole home, and Blue Cross advises against hutch-and-run combinations where the run is no bigger than the hutch. A good test: can your rabbits run and jump, lie fully stretched out, and stand on their back legs without touching the roof?
Choosing the shelter
The shelter is where rabbits sleep and hide from bad weather: a large hutch opening into a run, a garden shed or an adapted playhouse. Check for:
- A waterproof roof that overhangs the front, and walls without gaps for wind or rain.
- Raised floor. Lifting the shelter off the ground keeps it dry and makes it harder for predators to reach.
- Solid flooring. Wire or barred floors hurt rabbits’ feet and hocks.
- Two areas. A separate, darker sleeping compartment alongside an open area for food and water.
- Good ventilation. Sheds and playhouses can overheat in summer, so mesh-covered vents or windows matter.
Second-hand hutches should be scrubbed with a pet-safe cleaner a few days before use so the wood is completely dry.
Making the run secure
Foxes, stoats, weasels, dogs and cats will all try to get at rabbits, and rabbits are skilled diggers. Blue Cross recommends:
- Use welded mesh of at least 16 gauge (1.2mm), with holes of around 13mm. Chicken wire is not strong enough.
- Stop digging in and out by laying paving slabs as a floor, or fitting a buried mesh skirt or slabs around the edge of a grass run.
- Fit bolts and fastenings that a fox or a child cannot open, such as padlocks.
- Check the base and edges regularly for new holes.
Put the enclosure somewhere quiet, away from draughts, radiators and the sight of predators, and with shade for part of the day. Shade moves, so check it again in the afternoon. Never keep rabbits in a greenhouse or conservatory, which heat up very quickly.
Inside, give one hiding place per rabbit plus one extra, each with two exits. Add a digging box of soil, cardboard boxes and something to chew, such as a willow ball. Busy rabbits are less likely to chew the housing. The rabbit section has hay, food and toys, and the wider small pets range covers bowls and accessories.
Bedding and litter
Good bedding keeps rabbits warm and dry and soaks up urine. A typical setup is:
- Base layer: newspaper, then dust-extracted wood-based or paper-based pellets.
- Top layer: plenty of soft, dust-free straw for warmth and nesting, with extra in winter.
- Food layer: a generous supply of good-quality feeding hay, which rabbits should always have available.
Avoid sawdust, which is very dusty and can cause breathing problems, and cedar shavings. Wood shavings, if used, should be dust-free and non-cedar.
Rabbits usually pick a favourite toilet spot, so a litter tray there makes cleaning much easier. A large, low-sided tray from the cat litter trays range works well. Fill it with paper-based, non-clumping, non-expanding cat litter, and put a hay rack or pile of hay beside it to encourage use.
Cleaning routine
- Every day: remove wet or dirty bedding, empty the litter tray, clean bowls and refill water and hay.
- Every week: take everything out, scrub with a pet-safe cleaner, let it dry fully, then rebed.
Keeping house rabbits
Indoor rabbits need the same 3m x 2m x 1m minimum, available all day and night. That can be a spare room, a section of a room fenced with tall pen panels with no gaps for heads to get stuck, or free run of the house with a base area for times you cannot supervise. A cage from the small pet cages range can serve as that base if the door stays open into the larger area, but never as the whole home.
Before letting rabbits roam, cover or lift electrical cables, move houseplants out of reach, and keep cleaning products and medicines shut away. Shiny floors such as laminate or tiles are slippery and stressful, so add rugs or mats. House rabbits also benefit from regular, safe time outdoors for daylight.
Hot weather, cold weather and flystrike
The RSPCA gives 10 to 20°C as the ideal range for rabbits, which are prone to heatstroke. Once temperatures approach 20°C or the enclosure is in sun, make sure there is deep shade and plenty of water. A frozen water bottle wrapped in a towel, placed in the run, gives rabbits somewhere cool to lie. If you suspect heatstroke, move the rabbit somewhere cool and shaded, wrap it in a cool, damp towel and phone a vet straight away.
In winter, add extra straw on top of newspaper and remove wet bedding daily before it freezes. An insulated cover over most of the shelter at night helps, as long as a small area stays open for ventilation. Check water at least twice a day for ice, and offer a bowl as well as a bottle. If temperatures approach freezing, the RSPCA suggests moving the setup indoors or into a shed or unused garage, never one where a car is used.
Flystrike, where flies lay eggs on a dirty or damp rear end, can be fatal within 24 hours. In warm weather the RSPCA advises checking rabbits twice a day, and clean bedding and litter help reduce the risk. If you find maggots, call your vet immediately. Ask your vet about fly prevention, and remember that some cat and dog flea treatments are dangerous for rabbits, as explained in the flea, tick and worming guide.
Quick checklist
- At least 3m x 2m x 1m for a pair, open to the rabbits at all times.
- A raised, waterproof shelter with a solid floor and a separate sleeping area.
- 16 gauge welded mesh, secure locks and protection against digging.
- One hiding place per rabbit plus one, each with two exits.
- Dust-free straw, unlimited hay and a litter tray with paper-based litter.
- Spot clean daily and deep clean weekly.
- Shade and water in summer, extra bedding in winter.
- Check rear ends twice a day in warm weather.
Common questions
Can a rabbit live in a hutch if I let it out every day?
No. The RWAF, RSPCA and Blue Cross all say rabbits need constant access to the full space, and they are most active around dawn and dusk, when most people are asleep or busy. A hutch can be the shelter, but it must open straight into a large run.
Is it better to keep rabbits indoors or outdoors?
Both can work well if the space, company and safety are right. Outdoor rabbits need predator-proofing and weather protection, and indoor rabbits need a rabbit-proofed home and some outdoor time. The best choice depends on your home and your rabbits.
Can rabbits live with guinea pigs instead of another rabbit?
Welfare charities advise against it. The two species communicate differently, rabbits can injure guinea pigs, and their diets differ. A neutered rabbit companion is the better choice.
