Budgies are flock birds, so the most important thing you can give one is another budgie. The RSPCA describes them as a colony species that does best in social groups, kept in a large aviary or a cage big enough for every bird to fly and to move away from the others.
After company, the basics are space and diet. A budgie’s wingspan is about 30cm, and the RSPCA’s guidance means a cage for birds that spend most of their time inside should be at least 60cm in every direction. Budgies also need daily time flying outside the cage, and current RSPCA advice is that seed should make up no more than a tenth of the diet, with pellets, vegetables and some fruit making up the rest.
With good care budgies often live 5 to 8 years, and some live much longer, so it is a real commitment for a small bird.
Cage or aviary: how big
The RSPCA bases cage sizes on wingspan rather than on a fixed number, so the cage is measured against the bird. For budgies, which weigh roughly 30 to 40g, that works out as follows:
| Setup | Rule of thumb | Approximate minimum |
|---|---|---|
| Cage, birds out flying most of the day | 1.5 x wingspan in height, width and depth | 45cm each way |
| Cage, birds inside most of the time | 2 x wingspan in each direction | 60cm each way |
| Each extra budgie beyond two | Add 5% to the cage size | 63cm for three |
| Aviary | 4 x wingspan, plus 20% per extra bird | 120cm each way |
Width and depth are where many cages fall short. A tall, narrow cage may look large but gives little room to flap. Browse the bird cages range with a tape measure in hand and check all three dimensions, not just height. Keep the inside uncluttered so each bird can open its wings fully.
Where to put it
- Back against a solid wall, with a cloth over part of the top so the birds feel secure.
- Away from radiators, fires, stoves, draughts and direct sun.
- Never in the kitchen. Fumes from overheated non-stick pans can kill birds quickly.
- In a room where people spend time, as budgies are sociable and like to watch what is going on.
The RSPCA also advises artificial UVA and UVB lighting for indoor birds, to support their eyesight, behaviour and vitamin D. Use a flicker-free bird lamp with no glass or plastic between the lamp and the bird, and replace it as the maker advises.
Perches, toys and bathing
Perches should be natural wood, smooth, and in a range of thicknesses so feet are not always gripping the same size. Have enough for every bird to perch at once, set some at angles to encourage climbing, and never put perches directly above food or water bowls. Natural branches are hard to clean, so replace them regularly. The PDSA suggests baking new natural perches in the oven for an hour before use to kill anything under the bark. Overgrown nails are often a sign of unsuitable perches.
Budgies need to chew, shred and forage. Good options from the bird toys range include:
- Hanging toys and swings made from untreated wood.
- Natural fibre rope, paper and cardboard to shred.
- Foraging toys where food is hidden or wrapped.
- Twigs from safe fruit trees.
Rotate toys weekly so you can clean them and keep things interesting. Mirrors suit some budgies but upset others, so watch how yours react.
Bathing keeps feathers in good condition, especially in centrally heated homes where the air is dry. Offer a shallow dish or a clip-on bath from the cage accessories range, or mist the birds every few days in the morning with room-temperature water from a clean plant sprayer.
Feeding a balanced diet
Wild budgies eat seeds, but pet birds get far less exercise. The RSPCA explains that seed mixes are high in fat, low in calcium and vitamins, and that seed-only diets can lead to obesity, fatty liver disease and deficiencies. Budgies also tend to pick out the fattiest seeds first.
The RSPCA’s current approach for budgies:
- Pellets formulated for small parrots as the main food, available all day.
- Washed vegetables and some fruit every day, such as carrot, broccoli, peas, sprouts and de-seeded apple.
- Seed in small amounts, no more than a tenth of the diet, and treats such as millet sprays only occasionally or as training rewards.
- Fresh water changed daily, in a clean bowl or bottle.
Never feed avocado, which can be fatal to birds, and avoid bread, cakes and sugary foods. A cuttlefish bone gives budgies something to work their beak on. Advice on grit and mineral supplements varies, so ask an avian vet before adding them. You will find seed, millet and other options in the bird food section.
Change diets slowly, over several weeks, and only once a vet has confirmed your budgie is healthy. Sprinkling new food on a mirror or sheet of white paper can encourage a budgie to try it. Weighing your bird on digital kitchen scales and noting the weight makes any change easy to spot.
Flight time and company
The RSPCA says birds need at least six hours outside their cage every day, with space to fly freely and safely. Before you open the door:
- Close windows and doors, and switch off ceiling fans.
- Cover large mirrors and windows, or add decals, as birds can fly into glass.
- Keep cats and dogs out of the room and never leave them alone with birds.
- Remove houseplants that are toxic to birds, such as yew, lilac, poinsettia and dieffenbachia.
To introduce a new budgie, the RSPCA suggests placing the two cages about half a metre apart and moving them closer over several sessions. Preening, copying each other and feeding together are good signs. A hand-reared bird may prefer people at first, but most budgies are happiest with their own kind.
Household dangers and health
The PDSA lists several everyday hazards: fumes from non-stick pans and other coated items, aerosols and plug-in air fresheners, candles and incense, cigarette smoke and wood burners. Keep birds well away from paint, glue and DIY work until fumes have cleared.
Birds hide illness, and a sick budgie can go downhill fast. Check yours daily and see a vet straight away if you notice fluffed-up feathers, sleeping more than usual, watery droppings, loss of appetite, changes in drinking, breathing problems, discharge from the eyes or nostrils, swellings or an overgrown beak. Register your budgie with a vet before you need one, and ask whether the practice has an avian vet.
Quick checklist
- Keep at least two budgies, not one on its own.
- Choose a cage at least 60cm in every direction for birds that are mostly caged.
- Fit natural wood perches in a range of thicknesses.
- Feed pellets and fresh vegetables, with seed and millet as small extras.
- Allow at least six hours a day out of the cage in a bird-proofed room.
- Offer a bath or misting a few times a week.
- Keep the cage out of the kitchen and away from smoke and fumes.
- Register with an avian vet and check your birds every day.
Common questions
Can a budgie live on its own?
It can survive, but it is unlikely to thrive. Budgies are flock birds, and even lots of human attention cannot fully replace another budgie. A compatible companion is the better option for most birds.
Is a seed mix enough?
The RSPCA advises against seed-only diets because of the risk of obesity and vitamin and calcium shortfalls. Seed can stay in the diet as a small part, alongside pellets and vegetables. Switch gradually and ask an avian vet if your bird is reluctant.
How often should I clean the cage?
Change water and remove droppings and leftover fresh food daily, so nothing goes stale. A thorough weekly clean of the cage, floor lining and toys suits most homes, and the PDSA suggests rotating toys weekly so you can wash them. Liners and floor covering are in the cage bedding range.
Can budgies live outdoors?
Yes, in a well-built aviary. The RSPCA advises a draught-proof, insulated shelter and shade and weather protection over at least a third of the outdoor area. Ask an avian vet before moving indoor birds outside.
